interview (in 2004) with Ra'ed Sa'adeh, an electrical engineer
who is the Managing Director
The building's history:
There are several different stories. Parts of the building are over
300 years old. That was before people lived outside the Old City
of Jerusalem, so the theory is that this building originally held
animals like sheep and horses. Later on, according to a Greek priest,
it was a Turkish army office during World War I. In the 1920's it
was a school, and then a house, owned by the Sharaf family, the current
owners. In the late 40's it was turned into a hotel. My father (Sami)
ran it from 1960 til 1980 when he became ill and went under different
management. I took it over in 1990, and brought it back to its nature.
Then Palestinian activity centered around Jerusalem and there was
freedom of movement, so it made sense to start with a restaurant.
About the design and renovation:
The whole hotel is designed to emphasize the building's character
and history in context of the surroundings. I prefer Andalusian themes,
and the place also includes Turkish and Mamluk themes with furniture
and woodwork that are Bedouin, Egyptian, and Syrian. I designed everything
myself, except the gardens which are maintained by a gypsy from the
Old City. The downstairs is called Diwan, the traditional hospitality
room supplied by the mukhtar of a village. The restaurant is designed
with the theme of a village and is therefore simple, without fancy
décor and includes elements typical to villages. A grapevine
climbs over the ceiling, because in every Palestinian village grapes
are important and are used for shade. A traditional taboun oven is
in the corner. A taboun is dome-shaped, made of yellow clay with
stone housing, has a hole on top, and is covered with a lid. It is
heated from the outside by smearing the leftovers of the olive press
on the outside and igniting it. Bamboo is on the ceiling – because
it is used in villages to create fences and other things because
it is cheap.
About the cuisine:
I tried several things. I wanted Palestinian gourmet cuisine – meaning
first and second course, appetizers, desserts…but it didn't
work well so I reverted to Mediterranean cuisine such as Palestinian,
Lebanese, Greek, Tunisian and Moroccan. When times were better we
had a special of the day. By the way, most of the cuisine considered
indigenous to this area is originates from Turkey and came here through
the Ottoman influence as is the case with the cuisine of other places
in the region. I also like good olive oil. Generally people consider
olive oil from the north to be best because it is less acidic, but
it is not more tasty. I personally prefer oil from the Bir Zeit area,
which is more acidic, has a distinctive smell and a good taste.
Customers' favorite foods:
Arabs and tourists like "mazeh" – traditional salads,
and something from the grill. Local foreigners like those from NGO's
prefer light and healthy foods and sometimes order snacks.
Owner's favorite foods:
Fresh light lemon sauce on chicken breast and arugula salad with
apple and pear sauce.
Customer's favorite drink:
Palestinian Taybe beer is our bestseller. Turkish coffee is the
favorite hot drink.
About the coffee:
We use a mix of dark and light ("blonde") Turkish coffee
mixed with cardamon.
About the clientele: About fifty percent are local and fifty percent
are from NGO's, from places such as Italy, Norway, Sweden, France,
the U.S. and the Netherlands.